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LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



or 



JAMES F. O'CONNELL, 



THE TATTOOED MAN. 



DURING A RESIDENCE OF ELEVEN YEARS IN NEW 
HOLLAND AND THE CAROLINE ISLANDS. 



PROVIDENCE : 

J. F. MOORE, PRINTER, 15 MARKET SQUARE. 

1846. 




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IX 



A 






LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



o f 



JAMES F. O'CONNELL. 



I was born in Dublin, on the 10th of November, 1808. The 
first thing I remember of childhood is, being an inmate of a 
school at Monaster Evean, about forty miles from Dublin ; 
whence myself and two sisters were, one day, forwarded to 
Dublin, and shipped to Liverpool, consigned to the landlord of 
my father's boarding house. We arrived in the evening, and 
he carried us to the circus. I can recollect, as distinctly as 
though it were yesterday, my childish astonishment at what 
appeared to me, the magnificence of the building, the glare of 
light, the gorgeous tinsel ornaments, and, more than all, the 
superhuman feats of the ring. The drolleries of the clown 
filled me with a childish delight, which nothing in after years 
has paralleled. I thought the riders the most remarkable and 
enviable beings I had ever happened upon. Did I inherit this 
passion or not. When I was told that one of the troupe was 
my mother, and a person sparkling with jewels was pointed 
out to me as that mother, I would not have exchanged my 
parentage for that of a duke. I could hardly refrain from 
throwing myself into the ring, to assert, before the audience, 
my claim to a portion of their applause, as the son of the 
person they were so loudly cheering. 

Our first meeting with our parents, after a five years' sepa- 
ration, took place in my mother's dressing-room. She stifled 
our expressions of wonder at her princely vocation, by mater- 
nal caresses, more tender and repeated than gentle. 

I spent about a year with my parents, and then went in 
company with an uncle, who was also an equestrian, to Lon- 
don. My uncle did not keep a very strict eye upon me, and I 
spent my time in lounging about Deptford and Wapping. Here 



formed an acquaintance with the sailors, and, at length, Cap- 
tain Salmon, of the ship Phoenix, took a fancy to me, and 
without the knowledge or consent of any of my friends, I 
shipped as cabin-boy on board his vessel. 

A short time after I joined her at Deptford, she moved 
down to Woolwich, to take in live freight, being chartered 
by government for the transportation of female convicts to 
Botany Bay. 

Here were two hundred " ladies " — for so I suppose we are 
bound to style them — put on board of ship for the purpose of 
being conveyed many thousand miles from their native land, 
and what was probably worse for them, obliged to labor hon- 
estly for their bread. A few of them appeared to regret their 
fate, and perhaps were about to leave sweethearts behind them. 
But the majority appeared to revel in the prospect of a change 
of scene, and doubtless, thought themselves peculiarly fortu- 
nate in being able to take a voyage free of expense. If occa- 
sionally a cloud would pass over their minds at the thought 
of leaving dear friends behind, it was quickly dispelled by 
the reflection that a re-union with those friends at Botany 
Bay was more than probable. 

After a passage of five months, we came within sight of the 
rocky heads of Sydney Cove. Here was a meeting of friends ; 
and, if on leaving the shores of old England, there had been 
some tears dropped at the severing of attached hearts, they 
were amply compensated by the joyous greetings which at- 
tended our arrival at Botany Bay. 

After lingering about this place awhile, I shipped in 1822, 
on board a vessel called the Cape Packet, Capt. Dillon, bound 
on a whaling cruise. She was a half-rigged brig, of between 
one and two hundred tons, and was owned by a Mr. Haynes, 
who had formerly been a convict. 

At that time the Sydney whalers were almost the only 
vessels that cruised to the north of New Holland ; since then 
the American and English whalers have made free with the 
leviathans that sport in those waters. 

In the Cape Packet, seven of the hands were natives of the 
South Sea Islands, called kanakas. We had been five months 
on the ground and were taking the jacket from the last whale 
necessary for completing our cargo, when a white squall came 
frothing along the water, until the sea looked, as far as the eye 
could reach, as if it was filled with white cats coming to take 
our vessel by storm. As the squall struck us, we fell upon our 
beam-ends. All was now confusion ; the vessel lay with her 
keel out of water, struggling and working like a living thing 



against the power o{ the elements. Another moment and the 
topsail and jib went to tatters; her light spars snapped and 
fell to leeward ; the first fury of the squall was over; the in- 
sistence of our vessel to the wind was lessened, and she right- 
ed quivering and trembling. A steadier gale, accompanied by- 
thunder and lightning, followed ; yet when we contrasted this 
storm with the horrors of the white squall, we indulged a feel- 
ing of security. This feeling was, however, but momentary, 
for the appalling fact was almost immediately ascertained that, 
racked and riven by the tempest, our vessel was rapidly filling! 

Before we could clear the stern and quarter boats from the 
davit tackles, their keels were in the water, and our utmost ex- 
ertion was necessary to prevent their being swamped under the 
davit heads. Each of the crew consulted his own safety. We 
stripped the harness cask of its contents and shoved away from 
alongside in haste, to escape the vortex which we supposed 
would be caused by her sinking. We might, however,"have 
been more deliberate, as even after she was water-logged, we 
could, while daylight lasted, see the stumps of her masts. 

In the boat with myself were five of the kanakas. We put 
into the boat from the vessel, only some pork and beef from 
the harness cask ; but every whale-boat is supplied with a 
compass, a tinder-box, and a water keg, in addition to the ap- 
paratus for destroying whales. The water keg, however, was 
nearly empty, and the excitement of danger and escape pro- 
duced such a thirst on the part of the kanakas, that they drank 
all the water before I felt an inclination to drink. This did 
not vex me much as I believed we were only about fifty miles 
from the land. We were, however, four days in reaching it, 
and during that time, four of my kanaka companions died of 
thirst and exhaustion. The surviving kanaka, proposed to eat 
of the body of the last one that died. I shuddered with 
disgust, and he gave over the idea. Even then we were in 
sight of land, but so completely exhausted from hunger, fa- 
tige, and want of sleep, that we could no longer make exer- 
tion to reach it. My wrists were swollen and weak ; my feet 
having been in the water at the bottom of the boat, were 
shrivelled and raw. We resigned our boat to[the mercy of the 
waves, and were drifted on shore to a level sandy beach. 
Hosts of the natives, who had long discovered our boat as it 
slowly drifted to the shore, waded out, took it by the head and 
hauled it up. Some of them immediately stepped into it and 
plundered it of every thing movable— oars, irons, lances, tubs, 
&c. The reader may be curious to know why they did not 
put off to us in their canoes : but the aborigines of New Hoi- 



8 

land have no canoes in which they venture upon the sea at all 
— as their boats are the rudest known, inefficient and clumsy, 
like every thing else belonging to them. We were too weak to 
stand erect, and upon reaching the beach, sank in the sand. 
We made earnest gestures for water, but they paid no attention 
to our wants till they had stripped us of every article of cloth- 
ing ; then some water was brought us in calabashes, and 
some of the flesh of the kangaroo and bandycoot. Refreshed 
by these, we lay down to sleep under the native blanket — a 
wide strip of bark doubled — and never before was sleep so 
delightful or refreshing to me. 

Eight or nine months spent among these savages, gave me 
time to observe their habits ; for my ignorance of the country, 
and the hindrance of the natives so impeded my progress, 
that it occupied all that time in travelling from the place 
where the Cape Packet was wrecked, to Port Macquarrie. 

At and about Port Macquarrie, and to the north of that 
settlement, the aborigines of New Holland are probably more 
savage and filthy in their habits, and less acquainted with 
anything like art, than on any other part of the continent. 
In the southern and western parts, the natives have some- 
thing like houses, but in nearly every other part of the coun- 
try, bark shelter answers every purpose, and under this they 
sleep. A large fire is built at one end to keep away Poloyan, 
the devil, whose power is recognized by all the tribes. Like 
many other savages, they think it more necessary to curry 
favor with their devil than to worship the good spirit. When 
a thunder storm comes up, they prostrate themselves to the 
earth, and their shoutings and howling are intended for wor- 
ship. 

They are divided into small tribes, and in some few of 
these, hereditary chiefs hold sway : in others, might makes 
right, and the strongest assert a rule per force. The connect- 
ing link between apes and men, they have generally less re- 
semblance to the African negro than the New Zealander, 
and particularly, when old, resemble the monkey more than 
other human beings do. In stature, they are generally above 
the middle size, and their bodies bear an apish proportion to 
their legs, those limbs being shorter than a European, while 
the arms appear longer. In complexion, they vary from 
copper color to black ; the latter being generally the least 
ferocious race. Marriage is an institution hardly recognized, 
and often dissolved at will. Upon the birth of twins, one is 
killed ; and white or mulatto children of black mothers are 



9 

butchered as soon as born, the husband acting as executioner, 
and the mother consenting. 

Cannibalism is a trait found more or less among'the tribes 
on all parts of the continent, but principally on the northern 
part. I have seen parts of human bodies in the bags which 
the women carry on their backs ; and am convinced, from 
direct oral accounts, in which I put credit, that even aban- 
doned white runaways, after a residence with the natives, 
learn to eat human flesh. 

On my overland jaunt from the north coast to Port Mac- 
quarrie, I encountered; with one tribe, two runaway convict 
women, and with another a convict man. They had be- 
come so utterly degraded, as to be scarce above the savages 
in their habits ; wore next to no clothing, and fell into their 
indolent and filthy mode of existence. 

After remaining at Port Macquarrie about six weeks, I was 
shipped to Sydney as a runaway convict. My story had the 
less weight, because instances are not unfrequent of convicts 
stumbling upon penal or other settlements in their wander- 
ings, and many could tell as good a story as mine, in every 
thing but the slight circumstance of truth. Happy to find a 
conveyance back to Sydney, I embarked. 

In or about the year 1S26. 1 shipped in the bark John Bull, 
whaler, Captain Backus. After we had been from Sydney 
about four months, we put in at the Bay Islands, New Zea- 
land. Bishop Marsden, at that time on a visit to New Zea- 
land, from his residence at Paramatta, put on board of us a 
missionary who was appointed to Strong's Island, one of the 
Caroline Archipelago, with his wife and daughter. We were 
to cruise among the islands towards Japan, with the inten- 
tion to reach the shores of Japan at a particular season when 
whales were supposed to frequent the sea of Japan. At eight 
months out, we had taken about eight hundred barrels of oil, 
and were endeavoring to make Strong's Island to leave our 
passengers. At nightfall we had made no land, but knew 
from observation and the ship's log, that we were within a 
day's sail of our destination. We were bowling along under 
easy sail, the wind on our quarter, when, at about eight 
o'clock in the evening, the vessel struck on a concealed coral 
reef, which is not laid down in the charts. Captain Backus 
was, as usual, drunk on the hencoop, when the vessel struck. 
The boats were lowered : but notwithstanding the necessary 
precipitation with which we prepared to leave the vessel, the 
boat in which I escaped was furnished with provisions and 
2 



10 

arms, and we were able also to take away some ammunition 
and little portable articles. In the boat with myself were 
five seamen, and the wife and daughter of the missionary. 
He was in the boat with the captain. In the four boats the 
whole crew escaped from the vessel. For five or six hours we 
kept together, but when the morning dawned, there was only 
one of the other boats discernable, and that but faintly, a long 
distance astern, as we crested a wave. Even in a latitude 
which must have been within fifteen degrees of the equator, 
a night passed without sleep or food, in an open boat, washed 
by a continual breaking of the sea over it, chilled our frames ; 
we were faint, cold, weak, and dispirited. But the suffer- 
ings of the ladies engrossed more of our care than our own 
situation. As I sat steering, I folded the shivering sobbing 
daughter to my body with my left arm, while two of my 
shipmates assisted in protecting her by placing themselves 
on each side. The mother was similarly cared for by other 
seamen. We tendered them parts of our clothing, but could 
not persuade or induce them to accept anything of the kind. 
The suffering of these women was indeed great ; but in all 
their affliction they bore holy testimony to the efficacy of 
that religion whose messengers they were ; their fortitude 
might have put even some of their male associates in misfor- 
tune to the blush. On shipboard, before our misfortune, the 
discreet and feeling manner in which they strove to impress 
upon rude sailors the truths of religion, had convinced all of 
their sincerity at least. In the boat we had more affecting 
proof : they prayed frequently and fervently, and there were 
none to scoff. 

Broiling heat succeeded the chills of night ; the wind aba- 
ted, flattened ; at noon we were becalmed, dying with heat 
and fatigue upon a sea whose dead swell was as smooth as 
glass. After two days and three nights' exposure, the daughter 
died at about ten o'clock on the third day. For some hours 
before she had been apparently unconscious of her situation. 
She had talked in her wanderings, of her father, of her home, 
and of the island to which she was destined on an errand of 
mercy. The mother was by suffering so far bereft of sensi- 
bility, that the death of her child hardly moved her. She 
scarcely appeared to understand us when we informed her 
of it ; or, if she did, the announcement was received with 
delirious joy. With as much attention to the forms of civil- 
ized society, as our situation would permit, we committed 
the body to the ocean. The mother, in her weak state, 



hardly uttered a comment, and in a few hours, followed her 
daughter. 

Upon the next morning after performing these melancholy 
duties, we made the land. We had been in the boat three 
days and four nights ; but, rejoiced as we were to make the 
land, no immediate prospect of profiting by it appeared ; for 
it was circled by a coral reef, in which it was past noon be- 
fore we discovered an opening. Effecting a passage, we en- 
tered a smooth basin of water, and saw hundreds of canoes 
launching and putting off to us. They would approach 
within a short distance, then suddenly retreat, and at length 
commenced showering stones, arrows, and other missiles 
upon us. We threw ourselves in the bottom of the boat, 
and when they had satisfied themselves that we could or 
would offer no resistance, they were emboldened to make a 
rush upon the boat, which they towed to the beach. After 
we were landed they stripped us of our clothing, and took 
every thing out of the boat — whale irons, tubs, muskets, &c. 
The boat was then hauled up on the beach, and our com- 
pany, six in number, were led to the canoe-house. Besides 
myself, they consisted of George Keenan, an Irishman be- 
longing to Dublin • John Johnson, an Englishman ; Edward 
Bradford, of Bristol ; John Thompson, of Liverpool, and 
John Williams, of London. Of the native places of the two 
last named persons 1 am not positive. 

We were seated in the centre of the canoe-house on mats ; 
and yams, bread fruit, plantains, bananas, fish, and bits of cold 
game, were brought to us. The building was filled in every 
chink by natives, seated ; the men with crossed legs like Turks, 
and the women on their heels. A constant buzz of conversa- 
tion ran through the assembly, each talking to his neighbor 
and gesticulating violently. Parties of two or three would 
come down to where we sat, walking with their bodies bent 
almost double. They took hold of our persons very famil- 
iarly, women and men, and gave frequent clucks of admira- 
tion at the blue veins which were marked through our skins, 
on parts of the body which had not been usually exposed to 
be bronzed by the sun. My companions feared the Indians 
were cannibals, and that this examination was to discover 
whether we were in good roasting case, — a horrible supposi- 
tion, — which was strengthened by the building of two or 
three wood fires covered with small stones. Their fear was 
so excessive that they gave themselves up for lost : but, as I 
had been somewhat acquainted with the manners of the in- 



habitants of other islands, I reasoned, from the apparent good 
humor of these people, that they intended us no harm. 

In a sort of desperate feeling of recklessness, I determined 
to try the experiment of dancing upon our savage audience. 
I proposed it to my comrades, and they endeavored to reason 
me out of what they esteemed criminal, thoughtless conduct, 
in the view of a horrid death. The prospect was none of the 
most agreeable, certainly ; but I was determined on my ex- 
periment despite their remonstrances. I accordingly sprung 
to my feet, and took an attitude. A cluck of pleasure ran 
through the savages, and one of them, readily understanding 
my intention, spread a mat for me. I struck into Garry 
Owen, and figured away in that famous jig to the best of my 
ability and agility ; and my new acquaintances were amaz- 
ingly delighted thereat. There was no loud acclamation, 
but anxious peering and peeping over each other's shoulders, 
the universal cluck sounding all over the house. Before my 
dance was finished, the cause for which the fires were built 
became apparent, to the no small relief of my comrades. It 
was ascertained that the roasting preparations were made, 
not for us, but for some quadrupeds, which we afterwards 
found were dogs. Other preparations were making for a 
feast, and after my dance was concluded, each of us was 
surrounded by a group of natives who could not sufficiently 
admire and examine us. The natives continued to treat us 
with great hospitality and kindness. 

Upon the fourth day after our landing, there was an arrival 
of a fleet of canoes — the head and other chiefs. We were 
again inspected by the new comers, and it was my fortune to 
be selected, with my shipmate George Keenan, by the princi- 
pal chief. On the morrow my new friend — or master, or 
owner — left the island upon which we landed, taking with 
him Keenan and myself. Eight or nine hours carried us to 
his island, where new feasting and lionizing awaited us. 

A grand feast celebrated the return of the chief to his house, 
at which I repeated the Irish jig which had taken so well 
upon my first landing. I have no doubt that in my heels 
was found the attraction which led the chief to select me 
from among my comrades. We had been about three days 
at our new residence, when some of the natives began show- 
ing us their tattooed arms and legs, and making signs not 
entirely intelligible to us at first, though their meaning be- 
came afterwards too painfully marked. On the fourth or 
fifth day, George Keenan and myself were put on board of a 



13 

canoe with six natives. They paddled a short distance along 
the shore of the island, and then turned into a creek wide at 
the mouth, but soon narrowing till there was not room for 
two canoes abreast. It was completely arched over with 
dependant branches of trees ; and altogether the scene was 
romantic and would have been pleasing if we had not been 
so utterly in the dark as to the purpose of the journey. At 
length we reached a hut m which we were left by our con- 
ductors. After we had waited there sometime, our suspense 
was relieved by the entrance of live or six women, bearing 
implements, the use of which we were soon taught. George 
was made to set in one corner of the room, and I in the 
other, half the women with me and the other half with my 
companion. One of my women produced a calabash of black 
liquid ; another took my left hand, squeezing it in hers, so 
as to draw the flesh tight across the back ; then a little sliver 
of bamboo was dipped in the liquid and applied to my hand, 
upon which it left a straight black mark. The third beauty 
then produced a small flat piece of wood with thorns pierced 
throngh one end; this she dipped in the black liquid, then 
rested the points of the thorns on the mark on my hand, and 
with a sudden blow from a stick, drove the thorns into my 
flesh. One needs must when the devil drives ; so I sum- 
moned all my fortitude, set my teeth, and bore it like a mar- 
tyr. Between every blow my beauty dipped her thorns in 
the ink. 

I was too much engaged in my own agreeable employment 
to watch my comrade, but George soon let me hear from him. 
He swore and raved without any attention to rule ; the way 
he did it was profane, but not syntaxical or rhetorical. He 
wished all sorts of bloody murder to light on his tormentors ; 
prayed that the island might be sunk by an earthquake ; 
hoped forty boats' crews from a squadron of armed ships 
would land and catch the blasted savages tormenting the 
king's subjects. All this availed nothing but to amuse the 
women ; and even I could not forbear a smile at his exclama- 
tions. The operators suspended their work to mimic him, 
and mocked his spasmodic twitches of the arms and horrid 
gestures. He was a standing butt for it long afterwards, and 
when the natives wished to revile him, they would act the 
tattooing scene, ending with the exclamation, '• Narlic-a-nutt 
mucha purk M — Narlic-a-nutt (his name) is a coward ; " Jim 
Aroche rna coo mot "' — Jim Chief brave ! After my execu- 
tioner had battered my hand awhile, she wiped it with a 



14 

sponge. I hoped she had finished ; but no ! She held my 
hand up, squinted at the lines, as a carpenter would true a 
board ; then she begun again, and this was worse than the 
first job. When the women had done with my hand, they 
rubbed it over with cocoa-nut oil and pulverized charcoal. 
The women then left us, and we were permitted to eat. 

In the afternoon there came a fresh supply of ladies, who 
continued tattooing operations on my left arm. On the next 
morning my hand was puffed up into aldermanic proportions ; 
but, after breakfast the ladies came to decorate us still far- 
ther. George howled piteously and succeeded in begging 
off, but I was informed that I could on no account be excused. 
Eight days were occupied in tattooing the various parts of 
my corporation; but, fortunately being a small man, the 
ground of operations was not so extensive as it would have 
been had I laid claim to more inches. The hair on my body 
was twitched out with sea-shells, as dexterously as pin-fea- 
thers are subtracted from the flesh of a goose. It was a 
whole month before I recovered from the effects of this treat- 
ment, being anointed continually with oil and coal, which 
proved a sort of cosmetic not very favorable to the delicacy 
of the skin. 

To relieve our weariness, George made a flute of a reed, 
and a fiddle of some light wood ; while I, on my part, had 
music in my sole. Our retirement proved tedious, notwith- 
standing all that Zimmerman hath said on solitude. The 
parrots squawled and the dogs howled at a distance, and the 
scene was romantic enough ; but I was more given to dan- 
cing than sublime contemplation. 

We were heartily rejoiced when the canoe was manned 
to carry us back to the war canoe house. I came from the 
tattoo hospital, a horse of a different color from that which 1 
had when I entered it, being tattooed on my left hand, on 
both arms, legs, thighs, back and abdomen. George had 
escaped with a few stripes on the left arm, and those were 
unfinished. On our return a feast awaited us, and George 
fiddled and piped while I danced. 

I had supposed that my tattooing was over, but now by 
the Chiefs direction, one of his daughters prepared to mark 
me still more. She tattooed a ring under my right breast, 
another under my left shoulder, and two about my right arm. 
This was but the prick of a needle to the extensive printing 
business which had been prosecuted upon my body at the 
tattoo-house, and I made no complaint. 



16 

The toasting continued during the day; many dogs barked 
then- last ; jagow in abundance was mauled to express its juice ; 
and my comrade for his fife, and myself for my heels, were 
in excellent odor with the natives. Singing and dancing, 
with feasting, and the arrival of distinguished strangers, last- 
ed all the second day ; and it was not until night that I be- 
gan to suspect what it all tended to. At night I learned 
that the young lady who imprinted the last marks upon my 
arm and breast, was my wife ! that last tattooing being part 
of the marriage ceremony. 

Upon the third morning my bride led me away to the bath, 
and the day was spent in feasting and dancing. There was 
no quarreling or disturbance, no uproar or disorder. George 
also was provided with a wife ; but his unwillingness to sub- 
mit to the process of tattooing, wedded him to a woman of 
no rank — she, however, proved a good woman to him. 

My father-in-law was Ahoundel-a-Nutt, Chief of the island 
of Xutt, and the most powerful chief on the group of islands 
enclosed by the reef — set down on the charts as one island — 
Ascension, but called by the natives Bonabee. I resided under 
the same roof with him; he gave me his own name, Ahoun- 
del, but I was more frequently called Jem-aroche. George 
Keenan's island name was Narlic. 

My wife was only about fourteen years of age — affection- 
ate, faithful, and fond of baked dogs. During my residence 
on the island she presenred me with two little demi-savages, 
a girl and a boy — the latter of whom stands a chance, in his 
turn, to succeed his grandfather in the government of the 
island. 

My wife endeavored to instruct me in the language, and 
although I was a tolerably apt scholar, yet my teacher had a 
very critical ear, and the least, deviation from the island pro- 
nunciation, created vast merriment both for her and others 
present. My wife accompanied me in my walks and in my 
canoe excursions ; always at my side, and looking up to me 
as affectionately as ever a novel-schooled miss could, and with 
twice as much sincerity. My father-in-law, who was a prac- 
tical joker, continued, in the excursions in which he accom- 
panied us during the lengthened honey-moon, to pop upon 
places where he knew that the residents had never seen me. 
He would direct me to enter a house suddenly, with a howl, 
and strike an attitude. It would invariably send all the 
occupants, usually women, flying out at every place of egress. 
The sight of Ahoundel on the outside, enjoying a hearty 



16 

laugh, would remove fear, and this rude method of introduc- 
tion supplied both parties, the visitors and the visited, with 
rare amusement. 

To excursions without him, Ahoundel was very adverse. 
He would, in answer to my inquiries about other islands, tell 
me they were inhabited by cannibals, and assured me that if 
I ventured away from him, I should certainly be eaten. 
George and I, if we took excursions, did so in a canoe bor- 
rowed of fishermen, because we could not launch our own 
un perceived. Afraid of being eaten we kept near the island, 
sailing round it and paddling up the creeks. When we were 
near a settlement George would take a fife and make its shrill 
notes echo in the still valleys and mountains--" Narlic ! Narlic ! 
Narlic ! JNarlic ! " — we would soon hear the natives shouting, 
as th^y came running down to the creek side, "Narlic. cud- 
jong ! cudjong ! " Cudjong was the name which the natives 
had bestowed upon George's fife. We would be invited on 
shore, and when inclined to dance I used to land and shake 
a leg for their edification. 

Accustomed to polygamy, the Carolinean woman sees 
nothing shocking in the system of a plurality of wives. It 
were nonsense to assert that there is no jealousy and quarrel- 
ing — as it would be asserting a position contradicted by rea- 
son and the nature of things. Even in christian countries 
we often see that one wife is enough to quarrel with ; and it 
is not to be imagined that Laowni (that was her name) and 
myself had none of the disputes which appear incidental to 
conjugal life. 

Upon one occasion, when I was sick, a journey was pro- 
jected, as was the usual course with invalids ; I however re- 
fused to be cured in that way, preferring ease and quiet. All 
the preparations having been made for the journey, it was 
taken without me. I thought my wife might have had the 
grace to remain at home with her sick spouse, but she chose 
to accompany her father. Upon her return I had pretty well 
recovered, and N I welcomed her by taking my wedding gift — 
a few blue beads — from her basket, and breaking them be- 
tween two stones, before her eyes. As soon as I had done 
the mischief, Laowni ran from the house to a stone in the 
edge of the water, where she sat down and commenced cry- 
ing like an infant. I followed, and endeavored to pacify her, 
but it was of no use j the only answer she made was to kick 
like a spoiled child. The tide followed till she was in water 
to her elbows ; then I was enabled to coax her away, but 



17 

still she ceased not bellowing for her beads. If I had bitten 
off her finger, it would certainly have grieved her less. At 
night I went to sleep and left her weeping. She had refused 
to eat, though fish and the most delicate bits of roasted dog 
had been offered her. Happening, however, to awake at 
midnight, I detected her solacing her grief with a dog's drum 
stick ; but in the morning I found her still pouting. All day- 
she wore the same sulks, giving me an occasional look of any- 
thing but affection, but without saying a word. At night I 
took George with me, and instead of sleeping in the canoe- 
house, which was then Ahoundel's quarters, went to his 
house proper. There we built a small fire for its light, and 
just as we had propounded to each other the sage conclusion, 
that his Majesty of Nutt and family were not in the best fen* 
mor, we were surprised with a visit from that dignitary him- 
self, accompanied by a native — who was particularly indebt- 
ed to me for detecting him in stealing my knife— and two 
others, all armed with spears. Without saying a word they 
sat -down at a little distance, biting their nether lips, as is 
always the custom when vexed or in a passion. I enquired 
the reason of their visit, but received no answer. George 
shivered beside me like a leaf, though I assured him he need 
fear nothing, as the visit was undoubtedly intended solely 
for me. At length our agreeable state of suspense was re- 
lieved by the appearance of Laowni, who beckoned them 
outside, and we saw nothing more of them. 

This adventure showed the danger of offending the daugh- 
ter of a man who could take my life with impunity, although 
Ahoundel respected the courage with which I faced him — a 
courage as much affected as real. 

With these people, after George and I had become habitua- 
ted to their customs, and learned to appreciate their character, 
we resigned ourselves to circumstances, and were eontent in 
the absence of almost all hope of escape, to be happy. In 
about a year from our arrival, Ahoundel grew a little less 
cautious about our wandering ; a forced remission of care, as 
we had become too well acquainted with the people to be- 
lieve them all cannibals. Still he insisted upon our being 
frequently in his company. The difficulty with Laowni, 
which I have mentioned, and my father-in-law's conduct on 
that occasion, in which 1 suspect he was instigated by Na- 
madow, left my situation not quite so pleasant as before. 
Ahoundel seemed disposed to repair his harshness with over 
affection, and it was with the utmost difficulty that George 
3 



18 

and I obtained permission to leave Nutt for twenty-four 
hours. 

Outside the reef which bounds Bonabee are two islands, 
one called by the natives Hand, about twenty miles distant ; 
the other Pokeen, about sixty miles distant. The latt 
called on the charts Wellington Island, is inhabited ; Han 
is not. The inhabitants of Wellington Island resemble those 
of Bonabee, except that they are addicted to cannibalism, a 
practice which is unknown on Bonabee, except, perhaps, so 
far as tasting an enemy's heart goes. Hand is visited for its 
cocoanuts, which are very abundant. Keenan and myself 
visited it once, and found it bounded by a reef, through 
which there is but one passage. Boche le mere was deposi- 
ted in large quantities upon the sand at low tide. We were 
detained by a storm longer than we bargained for, being 
weather bound ten days. 

Upon Wellington Island we remained nearly six month 
The language was essentially the same as at Bonabee ;• th 
customs, similar; the three castes of people also existed there. 
It is oftener visited by vessels than Bonabee, as the bits of 
iron hoop, an officer's coat, and other articles in the posses- 
sion of the natives proved. Boche le mere and tortoise shell 
were plentiful ; the latter in possession of the islanders, and 
the former neglected from an ignorance of the method and 
means to cure it. The natives of Wellington Island are in 
the habit of frequently visiting Bonabee, bringing presents of 
mats, fruits, and other articles ; and it was upon the return 
of a party from Wellington that we visited their island. I 
did not believe, till my visit, that the natives of Wellington 
Island were cannibals ; then I had occular demonstration. It 
seemed with them an ungovernable passion ; the victims 
being not only captives, but presents to the chiefs from pa- 
rents, who appeared to esteem the acceptance of their child- 
ren, for a purpose so horrid, an honor. .Wellington Island 
laid down on the chart as one, is in fact, tnree islands bound 
by a reef. One of them is inhabited, and the other two are 
uninhabited spots, claimed by different chiefs, as if to afford 
a pretext for war, and the gratification of their horrible pas- 
sion for human flesh. 

Shortly after our return from Pokeen or Wellington Island, 
our four comrades, Johnson, Brayford, Thompson, and Wil- 
liams, paid us a visit, as had been their occasional custom. 
The reader may well imagine we enjoyed these opportuni- 




19 

ties to revive old associations, and speculate upon the chances 
of our escape from Bonabee. 

Upon this occasion, onr comrades proposed to George and 
me, that we should leave Nutt, and spend a twelvemonth 
with them, dividing the time with the different chiefs with 
whom they were quartered, and devoting the first month to 
an excursion from island to island. This proposition was 
eagerly embraced by us. I had frequently expressed to 
Ahoundei a wish to the same effect, but he uniformly refused 
his consent. My visit to Wellington Island was protracted, 
by the strength of the north-east trades,, much beyond his 
pleasure ; and, although this was not my fault, that long ab- 
sence had so proved the necessity of my presence to him, 
that it made him averse to my going from his sight ; a fatherly 
solicitude that was horribly annoying. Knowing therefore 
the certain answer to an application for leave of absence, I 
determined to take liberty without. What I fancied a good 
opportunity soon offered. Ahoundei, and his whole house- 
hold and connexions, launched the canoe for an excursion or 
visit. I was excused from the party on account of the pres- 
ence of my friends, who declined accompanying Ahoundei. 
When they were fairly off, we stepped into the canoe, but 
had hardly got under weigh, when a rascally nigurt, who 
had evidently been watching us, shoved his canoe off and 
paddled before us like lightning, shoving, or rather poling 
his canoe over the shallows, and working like a windmiller 
in a gale with his single paddle in the deep water. When 
he reached a creek or inlet, into which he knew Ahoundei 
had turned, he shot up the opening, and we began to see 
his intention, and the meaning of the hoohooing he had kept 
up in preceding us. In a few moments we saw the canoes 
of Ahoundei in pursuit : we used paddle and sail, and crack- 
ed on, esteeming it more a frolic than anything else. As we 
had the start, it was nearly two hours before they neared us 
enough to be within hailing distance. They then commenced 
fair promises if we would stop ; offering us fish and bread- 
fruit, and yams, and using all the logic of persuasion of which 
they were capable. Still we cracked on ; but Ahoundel's 
canoe at length shoved alongside of us, upon the weather or 
outrigger side, and we gave up the race as useless. My 
friend Namadow was the first to lay hold of the outrigger, 
and gave us the first intimation of their rough intentions, by 
endeavoring to capsize us. We hung to windward to trim 
the boat, and finding his strength ineffectual to upset it, he 



had the brazen impudence to climb on the platform with the 
intention to board us. In the heat of the moment I admin- 
istered a settler with my fist which knocked him into the 
water : then half a dozen of the Indians laid hold of our out- 
rigger at once, and thinking it useless to struggle against 
such odds, we all jumped out of the canoe. Others of 
Ahoundel's fleet had by this time gathered around us, and 
the Indians commenced beating us with the flat sides of the 
paddles whenever we showed our heads. Our canoe was 
smashed to pieces, and my comrades were allowed to climb 
into others in the fleet without much beating ; indeed, they 
were assisted in ; but I did not fare so well. Ahoundel made 
frequent feints with his spear, and so did others, but not one 
was thrown, nor had any person any such murderous inten- 
tions ; as I afterwards learned, their orders was to frighten 
and beat, but not to hurt : a consoling circumstance of which 
I had not then the benefit, but considered myself a case. Du- 
ring all this time my father-in-law was upbraiding me with 
my ingratitude, reminding me of my rank, connexions, wife, 
and the benefits he had heaped upon me. I protested my 
purpose was only to make an excursion with the intention to 
return. The paddle pounding had ceased after the first 
attack, and this conversation was carried on, or rather his 
scolding, while I was eyeing the spears and dodging in an- 
ticipation of the blows. I made several attempts to climb 
into AhoundePs canoe, but my particular friend, who had by 
this time been fished out of the water, rapped my fingers 
with his paddle as soon as they clasped the gunwale. The 
fleet, which had received additions from JNutt, of people who 
came out of curiosity, seeing the fray, now turned towards 
Nutt again ; and Jem Aroche, chief as he was, was fain to 
crawl into the canoe of a nigurt and return to the house of 
his father-in-law. My shipmates accompanied me, and Ahoun- 
del satisfied that I should not repeat my attempt to escape, 
proceeded on his excursion. No women accompanied our 
pursuers, as they were set on shore before the chase com- 
menced. 

Three or four days passed before Ahoundel and his party 
returned. During that time I had ample opportunity for re- 
flection, and acknowledged to myself that my punishment 
was not altogether undeserved, as my treatment of my father 
had, to say the least, been unhandsome. 

When the party returned, Laowni immediately sought me 
upon landing, as she heard vague rumors of my adventure, 



21 

and was not sure that I was not killed. She was overjoyed 
to sec me ; rubbed her nose against mine in token of affec- 
tion ; threw herself upon my neck, and wept tears of joy at 
mv safety. Ahoundel himself made a sort of half apology, 
and excused himself by recapitulating the suspicious circum- 
stances against me. Laowni was clamorous in her complaints 
of my treatment, and even appealed to her father by asking 
him how he would like such usage if he was a stranger in 
London. 

Laowni drew all the particulars of the attack from me, and 
worked herself into such a rage with Namadow, the friend 
who struck my hand, that she ran up to him and struck him 
with her codjic, or small wooden knife. It was a severe 
blow that she dealt him, and he had no refuge but flight, be- 
ing below her in rank. The others who had assisted in 
abusing me, thought it necessary to propitiate me with pre- 
sents before they ventured into the canoe-house. Ahoundel 
was much better pleasen with Laownrs attack upon Namadow 
than I was. He called her " brave " for it : not exactly to 
her face, but as any father among us would rather commend 
than regret the pranks of a spoiled child ; for such was La- 
owni, his only daughter. 

Our shipmates lengthened their visits some days after their 
capture under the suspicious circumstances of running away 
with George and me. Ahoundel had the justice to present 
them with a new canoe ; the civility to invite them to pro- 
long their visit, and the delicacy to restore their property so 
soon after the explanation, that their visit could not seem a 
detention forced by the lack of means of escape. 

After remaining restricted principally to Nutt for about two 
years, George and I determined upon an excursion, cost what 
it might. After an abortive attempt to get away in a borrow- 
ed nigurt's canoe, we obtained a larger one and started. To 
avoid suspicion it was borrowed, as launching one of my own 
would have been attended with a parade that would have led 
my honored father-in-law to suspect even more than was my 
intention. I had taken the precaution to note on a plantain 
leaf the names of the other islands and their chiefs. Five or 
six hours brought us to Chocoich, and upon nearing the chief's 
canoe-house, George struck upon his fife, flute, or cudjong, a 
lively tune, while I kept the canoe in motion. When we 
reached the landing a host of the natives, many of whom had 
never before seen us, were ready to receive us. With Wajor, 
the head chief, we remained one night, and were feasted and 



22 

entertained. A like reception we met at other islands which 
we visited in succession, occupying nearly a month in the 
trip. Possessed of the names of the chiefs, it was my custom 
upon ascertaining the name of the island to enquire for its 
chief, to whom I first paid my respects. George's flute and 
my looking-glass were assurances of good reception, as their 
fame and ours had preceded us. 

Notwithstanding the representations of Ahoundel, that we 
were in danger of being eaten if we ventured out his sight, 
nothing but the most courteous treatment was ever received 
by us. My tattooing, speaking my relationship to Ahoundel- 
a-Nult, was better than letters of introduction. We were 
frequently accompanied from island to island, and nigurs were 
put into our canoe to save us the labor of propeling it. Du- 
ring a month thus most agreeably spent we met all our ship- 
mates. These meetings were indeed the most pleasant part 
of the excursion, as the reader will well imagine. My friends 
were much diverted at the respect paid me on account of my 
tattooing ; so far was it carried that the natives often insisted 
upon my shipmates sitting down, as a token of respect to 
Jem Aroche, alias Ahoundel-a-Nutt, alias James O'Connell. 

But, the most wonderful adventure made during the ex- 
cursion, the relation of which will put my credit to a severer 
test than any other fact detailed, was the discovery of a large 
uninhabited island, upon which were stupendous ruins of a 
character of architecture differing altogether from the present 
style of the islanders, and of an extent truly astonishing At 
the extreme eastern extremity of the cluster is a large flat 
island, which at high tides seems to be divided into thirty or 
forty small ones by the water which rises and runs over it. 
It differs from the other islands in its surface, which is en- 
tirely level. There are no rocks upon it which appear placed 
there by nature. Upon some parts of it fruit grows, ripens 
and decays unmolested ; as the natives can by no persuasion 
be induced to gather or touch it. My companions at the 
time of discovering this island, were George and a nigurt ; 
the latter having directed our attention to it, promising us a 
surprise— -and a surprise indeed it proved. At a little distance 
the ruins appeared like some of the fantastic heapings of na- 
ture, but upon a nearer approach, George and myself were 
astonished at the evident traces of the hand of man in their 
creation. The tide happened to be high, our canoe was pad- 
dled into a narrow creek ; so narrow that in places a canoe 
could hardly have passed us, while in others, owing to the 



23 

inequality of the ground, it swelled to a basin. At the en- 
trance we passed for many yards through two walls, so near 
each other that, without changing the boat from side to side, 
we could have touched either of them with a paddle. They 
were about ten feet high ; in some places in dilapidated, and 
in others in very good preservation. Over the tops of the 
wall, cocoanut trees, and occasionally a bread fruit spread 
their branches, making a deep and refreshing shade. It was 
a deep solitude, not a living thing, except a few birds being 
discernible. At the first convenient landing, where the 
walls left the edge of the creek, we landed ; but the poor 
nigurt, who had seemed struck dumb with fear, could not be 
induced to leave the boat. The walls inclosed circular areas, 
into one of which we entered, but found nothing upon the 
inside but shrubs and trees. Except the wall there was no 
perceptible trace of the footsteps of man, no token that he 
had ever visited the spot. We examined the masonry, and 
found the walls composed of stones varying in size from two 
to ten feet in length, and from one to eight in breadth, care- 
fully propped in the interstices and cracks with smaller frag- 
ments. They were built of the blue stone which abounds 
upon the inhabited islands, and is, as before stated, of a sla- 
tose formation, and were evidently split and adapted for the 
purpose to which they were applied. In many places the 
walls had so fallen that we climbed over them with ease. 
Returning to our canoe we plied our nigurt with questions ; 
but the only answer we obtained was " Animan !" He could 
give no account of the origin of these piles, of their use, or 
of their age. Himself satisfied that they were the work of 
Amman, he desired no farther information, and dared make 
no inspection, as he believed them the residence of spirits. 
We returned to the island of Kitti, where we announced our 
intention to inspect the ruins on the next morning. It was 
with difficulty we got away from the islanders, who declared 
that our lives would be forfeited to our temerity. Arriving 
a second time at this deserted Venice of the Pacific, we pre- 
pared for a deliberate survey. We paid several visits to these 
ruins, but could find no hieroglyphics or other traces of lite- 
rature. The walls had evidently been built by a people dis- 
similar to the Indians on the inhabited islands, and the latter 
persisted in declaring that they were the work of spirits. 

At length I began to tire of exploring and to long for home ; 
for, strange as it may appear, my consort Laowni, savage 
though she were by classification, made my island home quite 



24 

an attractive spot to me. Upon my return to Nutt, I found 
my wife and father had learned my wanderings, by report 
from the islands I had visited. Laowni was rejoiced to see me, 
and Ahoundel pronounced George and me brave, for venturing 
as we had among strangers. We soon had a chance to put 
this recommendation to the test ; for we were informed that 
Wajaica-Hoo had declared war against Ahoundel-a-Nutt, on 
account of my marriage. It appeared that Laowni was pro- 
mised to him previous to my arrival. The daughter never 
much affected the match, as Wajai was old and the husband 
already of something like a dozen. 

Ahoundel, after stating the case, asked me if I was willing 
to fight, and as I saw no honorable mode of escape, I consent- 
ed ; but George showed the white feather and positively re- 
fused. Preparations were immediately made to visit Hoo, 
and " carry the war into Africa" by answering Wajai's chal- 
lenge at his door. Natives to the number of about fifteen 
hundred were mustered, from Nutt and the contiguous small 
islands called Hans and Param. The order of sailing was 
thus : Moonjobs (the highest rank) to the right or in the van ; 
Jerejobs (the second rank) next, and the Nigurts bringing up 
the rear. Each canoe was furnished with smooth stones, 
which were stowed in the bottom ; and each native was fur- 
nished with a sling, a spear, a bow and arrows, and war club. 
The day and place had been appointed with all the circum- 
stance of a duel ; or rather of an ancient joust at arms, with 
the exception that there was no stipulation or limitation as 
to force on either side ; each party bringing all the strength 
he could muster. Wajai was prepared to receive us, though 
with an inferior force : his canoes were ranged in the water, 
in front of his settlement, and as soon as we were near 
enough to distinguish features, our chief Ahoundel, and Wa- 
jai, sprang simultaneously to their feet, upon the platforms of 
their canoes, and flourishing their spears, set up a shout of 
defiance, the conches blowing an accompaniment. The in- 
ferior chiefs upon both sides then rose and joined in the cry, 
and the engagement commenced with hurling the stones with 
slings. These stones are seldom less than a pound in weight, 
and are thrown with tremendous precision, the parties being 
from thirty to forty yards apart. Several canoes were broken 
and sunk on both sides, and many men killed. The stones 
exhausted, arrows and spears followed, and the parties near- 
ing each other, till the battle was canoe to canoe, and hand 
to hand. The natives would seize each other by the hair, 



25 

and thrust with a small wooden spear or lance, without barbs, 
and cut the flesh with sharp shells. In the onset Wajai was 
killed by one of the party in our canoe. A shout of joy on 
one side, and a murmur of grief on the other, suspended the 
battle a moment ; but it was soon renewed with unabated 
fierceness. At length we forced a landing, and the vanquish- 
ed or broken foe, failing to prevent it, also sprung on shore, 
and disputed every inch of ground, to the very doors of their 
houses. The land engagement was fought withjthe jagged 
spear and war clubs. An hour and a half of hard fighting 
brought us to the estate of Wajai. The 'women had long 
before deserted the houses, taking with them such of their 
effects as they could conveniently transport, and the men, 
fairly overpowered, fled to the interior. Our party plundered 
the nouses of whatever moveables were left, set fire to them, 
and returning to the beach, broke up the canoes of the foe ; 
and taking with us the spears, mats, and other plunder, we 
returned to Nutt. We brought back such of our own dead 
as we could find, and the body of Wajai and other chiefs 
who fell upon the other side. The usual preparations of 
jagow and dog venison were made, and the bodies of Wajai 
and his chiefs were burned : but previously to the entire 
consumption of the bodies by fire, the heart of Wajai was 
taken out, and presented to the chiefs on a large plantain leaf. 
When it was eaten or even tasted 1 cannot say, as I was not 
present at the ceremony. The presumption is, however, 
that eating the hearts of the chiefs killed in war, is a custom 
with them. 

It was in the early part of the month of November, 1833, 
that I discovered a vessel from Nutt : the first vessel that I 
am positive of seeing while on the island of Bonabee. My 
comrades often said they saw vessels, and I frequently imag- 
ined that I did, but none approached near enough for us to 
distinguish their class. It was about sunrise in the morning 
when I first discovered her, and 1 called up George immedi- 
ately. We ran to the top of the nearest hill, and anxiously 
watched her, as well as the mist and occasional rain would 
permit, for it was a dull morning. After we had satisfied 
ourselves that it was a European or American vessel, we ran 
down to the chief and informed him that there was a vessel 
in the offing, and that we wished to board her. He was not 
half so much elated at receiving the information as we were 
in imparting it. He eyed me some moments — "What!" 
said he, "a ship! Cho ! cho ! ; ' (no, no.) I repeated my 
4 



26 

assurance, and led him to the hill. My wife and the whole 
household followed. George and I bounded about for joy, 
skipping up the hill, as if our feet could not serve us fast 
enough. The pace of our companions offered something of 
a contrast : they were still incredulous, and my wife and 
father were evidently hoping against the truth of my dis- 
covery, as they saw in my joy anything but a pleasant indi- 
cation of my feelings respecting remaining on the island. I 
pointed out the vessel, and showed them that it was not a 
war-canoe. I repeated my request for a canoe, assuring 
Ahoundel that I would make the vessel sit down, or come to 
an anchor. At the canoe-house, whither Ahoundel, Laowni,, 
my children, and others followed me, Ahoundel granted his 
unwilling consent that I should go off to the vessel, follow- 
ing it up with questions, while Laowni anxiously watched 
the expression of my face for an answer. " Do you love 
your wife ? your children ? Do you love them much — very 
much ? Will you certainly return ? " To all this I answer- 
ed yes, yes ; and my heart smites me now, as I recollect the 
gratified expression of my wife's countenance upon receiving 
the assurance. Blunt plain man that I am, I could hardly 
disguise my joy at the hope of an escape, although at times, 
as I looked at Laowni and her children, and the thought of 
Ahoundel's kindness intruded itself, I could hardly conceal 
my grief at parting. A large canoe was prepared to launch, 
but the tide was out. We were obliged to wait for it two 
full hours ! Oh ! the impatience we felt — the snail-like pro- 
gress of time ! Knowing perfectly well, had we been cool, 
the time of the tide, still we could not avoid running down 
every ten minutes to look. Meanwhile I prepared a quan- 
tity of tortoise shell, yams, bread-fruit, and cocoanuts, to take 
off to the captain. We watched the vessel — she tacked and 
stood off — our hopes fell — she stood back again — we were 
reassured. She hove too, and we were happy till we recol- 
lected that we were tide-bound. 

At length the tide served us to launch the canoe. Ahoun- 
del and Laowni accompanied us to the boat, the former re- 
minding me of my promise to bring him trinkets, the latter 
melancholy, and half doubting that she should see me again. 
There was a fleet of some dozen canoes beside mine. I was 
accompanied by Keenan, a young chief, and two nigurts. 
We went outside the reef, and had neared the vessel so that 
we could distinguish the men on her decks, when the mgurt 
who had the steering oar, let the canoe get into the trough 



'27 

of the sea. There was a tremendous sea on, and it' was care- 
lessness on my part to let the paddle go out of my hand. 
We were swamped. As is usual with the natives, we all 
jumped overboard ; two taking the out-rigger side, and the 
others striving to bail the canoe. There was, however, too 
much sea running, and all endeavors to bail the boat proved 
futile, while the tide and the swell were drifting us towards 
the reef. Alter imminent danger of drowning, George and I 
reached the reef. On gaining the rocks, I attached my mat 
to the pole of the outrigger and made signals of distress ; but 
the men in the schooner, supposing us to be natives, paid no 
sort of attention to it. We were two or three hours on the 
reef before we were discovered by the natives, and were 
taken off. One of our party — the nigurtwho remained with 
the canoe — was drowned. 

Upon reaching Nutt, Ahoundel was astonished with the 
story of our escape, coupled as it was with the loss of the 
nigurt. He was astonished that two white men should prove 
more fortunate swimmers than a native. At night the 
schooner stood off, and in the morning she was not to be 
seen. At length I saw a speck — it was the schooner ! A 
half hour more and the tide was right. The vessel, standing 
in, was now distinctly visible, and prepared with a fresh load 
of tortoise shell and provisions, with George and two nigurts, 
I set sail again. When we reached the schooner she was 
hove to, with her boarding nettings up, and her men muster- 
ed, with boarding pikes and muskets at hand. Two or three 
other canoes got alongside at the same time that we did, and 
others were coming off. W r e passed under tier stern, and 
read the words " Spy, of Salem." She was brig rigged for- 
ward, and schooner aft. Passing round to her weather bow, 
I sung out, " shipmates ! throw us a rope's end — will you ?" 
There was a bustle on deck, a buzz of surprise, but no an- 
swer ; and in a moment I heard somebody exclaiming — 
" Captain, the natives on this island speak English." The 
anxiety to get a peep at us through the boarding netting was 
now redoubled fore and aft. One of the men, after much 
hesitation, threw us a rope, and the captain came to the gang- 
way and asked us on board, requesting us to keep the natives 
in the canoe, which we did. The captain did us the honor 
to ship the side-ladder for us, and George and I needed no 
second invitation to come on deck ; but, taking up the tor- 
toise shell with us, directed the natives to pass up the yams. 
To my first question the captain answered that the name of 



28 

the island was Ascension, the group being laid down as one 
island on the charts. 

After some conversation with the captain, the schooner 
filled away again, and we stood off with a fleet of canoes in 
tow j dashing and splashing through the water, their outrig- 
gers foul of each other, getting continually carried away. 

I undertook to pilot the Spy inside the reef, to an anchor- 
age, at Captain Knight's request. At four or five o'clock in 
the evening, she came to an anchor in the harbor of Matala- 
leme. By the natives who went that night to Nutt, I sent 
Ahoundel a large broad axe and an adze, and to Laowni I 
sent beads, red kerchiefs, and othei- trinkets ; while George 
and I remained on board, afraid to trust ourselves ashore 
again. 

Like all other cowards, Captain Knight was cruel, and 
avenged attempts at petty pilfering by murdering the natives. 
In consequence of this conduct we were soon compelled to 
leave the islands. Fairly out of the harbor of Mantalaleme, 
the deportment of Captain Knight materially changed toward 
us. In about fourteen days we made Guam, one of the 
Marian Islands, and here Captain Knight would have left us, 
but the authorities would not permit it. After leaving Guam, 
I had some altercation with Captain Knight. During the 
whole passage I had been sick from a cold, exhaustion, fa- 
tigue and derangement of my whole system, from the change 
of diet. I was lying one night on the heel of the bowsprit, 
when Captain Knight approached and gave me a kick. 
" What business have you here asleep sir? " I pleaded my 
weakness and ill health, and he collared me ; I returned his 
grasp with interest, when he freed himself, and running aft 
procured a brace of pistols. He did nothing but talk, how- 
ever ; but on our arrival at Mantilla, he charged George and 
me with being runaway convicts from New Holland, muti- 
neers, pirates, devils, witches, hobgoblins, &c. &c. &c. Ac- 
cordingly, we were put in chains, carried on shore, and de- 
posited in the calabozo. 

Upon entering, we found ourselves in a sort of reception 
room, more convenient for its purposes than genteel or ele- 
gantly furnished. It was separated from the rest of the 
prison by an iron grating, through which the friends of the 
prisoners conversed with them. Through this grating we 
saw a large hall, tenanted by prisoners, but were ourselves 
passed up a flight of stone steps, communicating with the 



29 

second story. Here, with Chinese, Malays, Spaniards and 
Creoles, were we locked up. 

Sailors, many of whom visited us, were in the frequent 
practice of making us small presents. With the money thus 
obtained we sent and purchased bread and meat, but the eyes 
of Argus were necessary to prevent verification of the pro- 
verb, " many a slip 'twixt cup and lip." Even after our bit 
of meat was in the pot with the rice, and we were superin- 
tending its cooking, some dexterous Chinese thief would 
whip it out with his chopsticks, if our eye strayed from it 
one moment. Each of the prisoners is obliged to prepare his 
own food, in a portion of the prison set apart for that purpose. 

All sorts of ingenious modes of punishment were practised 
upon the prisoners for misdeeds while there. It would almost 
seem the Chinese ingenuity of torture, tempered by a little 
more regard for humanity than the officers of his Celestial 
Majesty possess. Stocks, confining the culprit in all sorts of 
positions, many of which were as ludicrous as uncomfortable, 
clogs, irons, and collars, and devices the description of which 
would tire, were in continual exercise. Flogging was going 
on all day, but the poor devils of Chinese came in for more 
than a proportionate share of it, and the blows were laid on 
with more hearty good will, as they were heretics. 

We were not without amusement. George had brought 
his violin and flute, of course, and I had not forgotten the 
exercise of my heels. Then in the various assemblage there 
was ample amusement in watching the diiferent disposal of 
time, according to character. The Chinese were most of 
them merchants, in a small way, vending tobacco, betel, and 
other " notions," as a Yankee would say ; and there is no 
better word in the world. Stock in trade was not wanting, 
while there was a chance to exercise their expert fingers in 
tricks of sleight of hand. Others would operate as barbers, 
tailors — they had a thousand resources for busy idleness. 
Spanish blood showed itself in games of chance — cards, 
draughts, dominoes ; and the parties would set as gravely 
and intently engaged as if they had been recreating in the 
palace of a grandee. An occasional industrious one wove 
hats ; and cooking pilau was the periodical occupation of all 
hands. 

We were never brougnt to trial, and I amused myself by 
writing letters to such English and American residents as I 
could hear of. The American Consul, and Mr. Sturgis, an 
American resident, visited us about a week after our commit- 



30 

tal, and to the latter gentleman I am much indebted for his 
kindness. 

I indulged in an occasional game of draughts with one of 
my fellow-prisoners, a Spaniard. One day he tried to cheat 
me and we quarrelled. As a punishment, I was ordered into 
the lower prison, and George was moved with me. This 
apartment sacred to the lowest rogues, was by no means so 
pleasant as the upper one. Here I assumed the amusement 
of despatching letters ; continuing it until one day, the 
deputy jailor came to me with orders to put me in close con- 
finement. I resisted, and in the scuffle was severely bruised, 
and my rigging dismantled. In order to give me food for 
reflection, I was seized down to a bench and beaten with 
cow-hides. Not to fatigue the reader with a history of my 
sufferings and deprivations in this prison, and the brutal con- 
duct of the American Consul, I will say that no trial took 
place. I had been imprisoned to satisfy the malice of Cap- 
tain Knight, and it was not pretended that anything could 
be proved against me. We left Mantilla in a Spanish vessel 
and went to Macoa. From Macoa we were sent to Canton. 
From Canton we sailed in the Elizabeth, Captain Rudkin, 
for Halifax, at which port we arrived in September, 1835. 
We had a pleasant passage ; George's flute and fiddle enliv- 
ening the day watches, and to complete the band, I manu- 
factured a drum out of a half barrel, by stretching a sheep 
skin over one head. 

Arrived at Halifax, we found the cholera raging. Captain 
Rudkin wished Keenan and myself to remain by the vessel, 
but we had a mind to travel in the United States, and there- 
fore declined. We set out on foot for St. John's, having put 
our baggage on board a vessel bound thither. We arrived 
before the vessel, and upon her arrival we went to the health 
office for permission to take out our baggage. 

" Your baggage ! — where are you from ? 

" Halifax." 

" You are !" (retreating,) and how did you get here ?" 

" By land !" 

" Stand back ! back ! — the cholera is raging there, and you 
may have caught the infection !" 

George, having been taken ill, was sent to the hospital on 
suspicion. There I left him, shipped on board of an Ameri- 
can schooner, and arrived in New York in the fall of 1835. 

Thus ends my narration. 



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